Colonia Suiza is a historic mountain village founded by Swiss immigrants in 1895, located 25 km (15 miles) west of downtown Bariloche along the Circuito Chico route. Its main highlight is the lively Artisan Market and Curanto ceremony — an indigenous Patagonian feast where meats and stuffed vegetables are slow-cooked underground over red-hot volcanic stones.
- ✓ Best days to visit: Wednesdays and Sundays (official days for the Artisan Market and the uncovering of the Curanto pit between 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM).
- ✓ How to get there: Public bus (Line 10 with a SUBE card), rental car via Circuito Chico, or a guided tour.
- ✓ Other highlights: Historic alpine tea houses, Berlina Craft Brewery's original taproom, and scenic walks by Lake Moreno.
Tucked away at the base of the towering Cerro López and bordered by Lake Moreno, Colonia Suiza feels like a living open-air museum just 25 kilometers (15 miles) from downtown San Carlos de Bariloche. Founded in 1895 by the Goye brothers — pioneers from the canton of Valais, Switzerland — this charming heritage village preserves its unpaved dirt lanes, century-old wooden chalets, and unique Patagonian culinary traditions.
What is Curanto and How Does the Ritual Work?
While the village owes its architecture to Swiss settlers, its most famous dish comes from the ancient indigenous Mapuche and Tehuelche peoples. The word Curanto translates literally to "hot stone" in the native Mapudungun language.
Experiencing the Curanto in Colonia Suiza is both a feast and a fascinating cultural spectacle:
- Heating the Stones: Early in the morning, a shallow pit is dug in the ground and filled with smooth river stones heated over a roaring wood fire until they glow red-hot.
- Layering the Feast: Once the embers are cleared, the scorching stones are lined with giant green nalca (Chilean rhubarb) leaves. Chefs then pile on generous cuts of beef, Patagonian lamb, pork, chicken, sausages, potatoes, sweet potatoes, apples, and squash stuffed with melted cheese and sweet peas.
- Underground Slow Cooking: The food is sealed under another layer of nalca leaves, wet burlap sacks, and finally a thick mound of dirt, turning the pit into an earthen pressure cooker for nearly two hours.
- The Unveiling (12:30 PM – 1:30 PM): Around midday, visitors gather around the smoking mound with cameras ready as the dirt and leaves are peeled back, revealing tender, smoky meats ready to be served.
The Wednesday & Sunday Artisan Market
Planning your visit on a Wednesday or Sunday brings the village to life. On these two days, the central fairgrounds buzz with local artisans selling hand-carved wood, leather goods, silver jewelry, wool knits, and homemade berry jams, often accompanied by live folk music.
If a full Curanto platter feels too large (portions are massive and easily shared between two or three people), the market's food court offers fantastic casual bites like pulled-lamb sandwiches, fresh fried empanadas, sweet waffles, and local craft beer on tap.
Beyond Curanto: Craft Beer & Alpine Tea Houses
1. Berlina Craft Brewery
Colonia Suiza is the birthplace of Berlina, one of Patagonia's most celebrated craft breweries. Located right at the entrance of the village, their rustic wooden taproom serves award-winning IPAs, stouts, and ales brewed with pure glacial water and local hops.
2. Historic Tea Houses (Casas de Té)
For dessert or an afternoon break, step into one of the traditional alpine tea houses surrounded by raspberry orchards. Sample homemade wild-berry tarts, apple strudel, rosehip jam scones, and rich Patagonian hot chocolate.
How to Get to Colonia Suiza
- By Rental Car or Tour (Circuito Chico): Colonia Suiza sits on a scenic detour right off the famous Circuito Chico loop (Provincial Route 79), just past the Lake Moreno bridge.
- By Public Bus (Line 10): Bus Line 10 (Mi Bus) runs directly from downtown Bariloche into the heart of Colonia Suiza. Make sure your SUBE card is topped up before boarding, and check the return schedule in advance.
Circuito Chico + Cerro Campanario Guided Tour
Discover the breathtaking landscapes of Lake Moreno, Llao Llao Peninsula, and Bariloche's historic swiss heritage with an expert local guide.
Standard rate
Frequently Asked Questions about Food & Culture
❓ What days are the Curanto and market held in Colonia Suiza?
The traditional Curanto cooking ceremony and the full artisan market take place every Wednesday and Sunday year-round (with some extra Saturdays during peak summer). The uncovering of the underground oven happens between 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM.
❓ Is Colonia Suiza worth visiting on other days of the week?
Yes, if you prefer a quiet stroll along dirt roads, peaceful lakeside views, and visiting tea houses or Berlina Brewery without crowds. However, the artisan market stalls will be closed and there won't be a Curanto ceremony.
❓ How do I get to Colonia Suiza by public bus?
Take Bus Line 10 (operated by Mi Bus) from downtown Bariloche or along Av. Bustillo. You must pay using a pre-loaded SUBE transit card.